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Hawk Hil

Hawk Hill is in the Marin Headlands. Its about 2-3 exits off the highway from where I live. It makes an awesome ride on a bicycle - granted its a slog to get to the top. But from that vantage point, which houses ww2 fortifications, you can ride down in a state of pure euphoria. We took Maria's friend Lorena and her daughter Sammi here a few weeks back. Maria took the time to snap a shot of me at one of the view points for the Golden Gate. I posted this one to Facebook and got shit from the lovely douche bags (I say this with love) I know for it as I looked like a munchkin due to the perspective =). 

Gettysburg, D.C., Jersey - Journey's End of the Civil War Tour

Been busy and haven't had the time to finish this post. The thumbnails of the last leg of my trip have been haunting me on my desktop display. 

The last major spot was Gettysburg, PA. Why not end with the biggest battle of the War? It took us two days and a midnight hike across the battlefield to see just a portion of it. We stayed downtown at the Gettysburg hotel. Which had a nice lobby and a nice front, but the rooms was no better than a motel's and I would recommend staying at another spot downtown if you can.

Its interesting to note that the further you go towards the center of the town, the further back in time you go. On the outside you have strip malls and the modern highway. As you go in, you pass by establishments from the 70's the 30's and then eventually in the middle of town, you are back in 1863.

I had a discussion with one of the locals who ran a winery in the center of town (there are at least two others) who told me that the town has a special hold on you. The people who live there seemed to have a special bond with history and love the significance their town had to play in the unfolding drama in the rebirth of America.

 We started our tour at the Lutheran Seminary - which charges an outrageous price to go up to see the famous Cupola that General's Buford and Reynolds used on the first day of the battlefield to scout incoming confederate columns of infantry. Cheap bastards - they know that die hard Civil War fanatics will pay a premium to see this.

We made our way north to the Oak Hill area and then to the North East corner of the battle field where Confederate General Early - under Gen Ewell's 2nd Corp came in on the Union's right flank and started the Federal rout. There was a massive group of students that we needed to stay one step ahead of as we made our way over to Brenner Hill.

We opted to end our tour that day as we had seen most of the sights of the first day of fighting. We got some rest back at the hotel and then later in the afternoon we walked from the center of town to Cemetery Hill. It was here that the IX Core under General Howard began to create a defense position. The fortifications here and on the neighboring Culp's Hill would prove to be to much for the Army of Northern Virginia to surmount. We walked along the way down Cemetery Ridge, taking in the monuments to General Meade and the various structures saluting the defenders of the Army of the Potomac that held this position. We arrived finally at the copse of trees where the famed Pickett's Charge was directed and where the Confederacy achieved its "high water mark."

We got up early the next day and took a tour of the remainder of the field of battle, including a stop at the Gettysburg visitor center, which in retrospect is more or less a tourist trap to anyone who has read even an article about the battle. That said, it does showcase a multitude of relics that is worth the visit. We finished that day by touring seminary ridge, little round top, devil's den, and the famed peach orchard and wheat field. Time was running out and we made a dash for Washington D.C.

Our last night we spent at the Willard Hotel. A place that resonates with history from even before the Civil War, through out the conflict, and to our present day. Google this hotel's history - I doubt you would not be impressed. The next day I got Chase back to the airport and made my way back up to New Jersey to meet up with my sister and Maria for my cousin's wedding. It seemed that a life time has passed since we stepped foot on our first battlefield.

The Road to Antietam

One thing about staying in Winchester, VA is that it is striking distance to a multitude of different civil war battlefields. From here it is about an hour across the Potomac to the field of Antietam. This was a battle in 1862 which is still regarded as America's Bloodiest Day. Thats a decisive statement when one thinks about the D-Day landings on Omaha Beach, the surprise attach on Pearl Harbor, or Rommel's bloody repulse of American forces at Kasserine Pass in Tunisia.

What I liked about this particular battle, was that it was actually a series of smaller battles. We started with the Northern sector. This is where the battle begun and was where the fabled "cornfield" of Antietam lies. From the visitor center one can walk down what was once known as the Hagerstown's Pike to the northern extent of the field. It was here that Alexander Gardner took his gruesome photographs of the dead piled up along the wooden fences.

We made our way up past the West Woods to the East Woods, where Union forces began their assault and in between this is the Cornfield where both the Union and the Confederates suffered horrendous losses. It has been calculated that John Bell ( a confederate general ) sent his Texans into this field in a counterattack and in less than 20 minutes suffered 83% casualties.

As we walked, I couldn't help but think how peaceful the area seemed. It was really an otherwise tranquil and beautiful piece of Maryland.

Walking in, through, and then out of the cornfield, we made our way back to the Visitor center. The Dunker Church was visible from a distance on a small patch of high ground. It made sense why this was the focal point of the Union Attack. It was the only major landmark. Ironic that a church would be the focal point for an attack - but this seemed to be the case for several other battles as well. I believe Shiloh and Gettysburg (if you consider the Seminary) would be similar examples.

Next was the sunken road. A depressed lane that was eroded prior to the battle by frequent traverse of carriages and wagons. It proved to be an ideal rifle trench and an extremely strong position. It was here that the center of Lee's line was able to hold off repeated attack - including Meagher's Irish Brigade. Lee had to send in almost the last of his reserves - stripping them from other fronts to secure this one. In the end, confederate soldiers misunderstood an order for retreat and abandoned this position. Lee then had to resort to the use of his artillery to hold off further union attack. By the end of the battle this trench was filled with bodies.

We attempted to get in a few shots of the Southern portion of the battlefield - over an area called "Burnsides' Bridge" where the Union Commander who gave his name to tho bridge attempted to get an entire Corp over a 12 foot wide bridge. The results were disaster, but sheer number gave way. The Confederates who had been thinned to support other fronts, could only hold for so long. They had to retreat and as the Union pursued it seemed that Lee would be crushed. Just in time, A.P. Hill's forces appeared on the horizon - they had just gotten back from securing Harper's Ferry and threw themselves into the Union Left flank to save the day.

When we arrived, the Bridge was under construction and heavily defended by a swarm of bees that began to attack us and so we beat a hasty retreat. 

Daughter of the Stars - The Shenandoah

The rolling hills of the Piedmont soon gave way to the Appalachian range and the Shenandoah Valley. Its a beautiful valley that stretches for the length of Virginia in a Southwest to North East direction. Bordered by the Allegheny on the west side and the Blue Ridge on the east, the valley floor is a fertile basin punctuated by meandering rivers and tributaries of the Shenandoah River. 

All along the protecting and flanking ranges are small passes that one needs to drive over in order to get  in. We entered via Rockfish Gap near Waynesboro and pulled into Staunton (which is pronounced "Stanton") for the night. It's a cute little town nestled into some foot hills. Surprisingly it had the best restaurant of our trip. Zynodoa is located on the main strip and is pricy. However, well worth the price.

At night, the town shuts down and as we walked about after dinner, it was creepy. No humans as far as the eye could see. No movement, just a faint breeze and the only change was the streetlights alternating from green to red and back again for non-existent cars. It really was something akin to the Twilight Zone.

Luckily we only spent one night here. From Staunton we made our way North West. It is considered going "down the valley", which makes sense if you think of it in terms of following the river downstream. Halfway down the valley is the Massanutten Mountain, which divides the valley in two. In the civil war Jackson would use this mountain to screen his forces and then use it as a natural border to keep his enemies divided. There is one road that goes across this long mountain that comes from a town called New Market. We took this for some amazing hiking with an excellent vista along Storybook Trail.

There were 4 (some historians record 5) civil war campaigns in this valley. Federal and Confederate forces would clash in nearly every major town. The town of Winchester changed hands 72 times during the course of the war. This was our next destination. 

I wouldn't recommend this place. Its out of date and a bit too rustic. There is only one major strip and it seems like the remainder of the city is falling into disrepute. Its only major bonus is that it is a perfect jumping point to see a multitude of civil war battle sites, excellent hiking along the blue ridge panoramic drive, and an easy drive to Antietam and Harpers Ferry. 

I would say Harper's Ferry was my preferred hiking destination. The town itself is a bit of a tourist trap. However it does have some impressive sights including John Brown's famed fort where he attempted to lead a slave revolt in 1859.

From the center of the town, one can cross the Potomac River and climb up a steep hill to see the vista of city below. From the top of Maryland Heights, one can see the confluence of the Shenandoah River as it merges into the Potomac. The water literally change color as it does this.

Thus my pointers for the Shenandoah:

1) Check out some of the amazing hiking

2) Wineries here are outstanding

3) Stauton has some amazing restaurants

4) Harpers Ferry is a must

5) Don't recommend Winchester - not much here

6) BTW Joe's Steakhouse - which is rated number 1 per trip advisor - is not worth the cost.

I think for anyone interested in Civil War history, this is a must. Everywhere you look is a battlefield. In some cases like Winchester there are three fields here alone. Its a bit quaint and rustic, but I think thats also where the charm lies

Petersburg to Appomattox Court House

 It was sad to see Fredericksburg disappear behind the horizon. I would highly recommend this town to anyone. We managed to spend 3 days and it was packed with everything we needed. The stores had a wealth of interesting antiques, the food was sophisticated, and the in town college produced a local gentry of eclectic and dynamic people. It also had history in abundance, a running path along the Rappahannock, and while in town we saw at least 3 weddings going on. I guess we were not the only ones who were impressed.

 We made our way south west into the interior of Virginia known as the Piedmont. The coastal area soon gave way to beautiful rolling hills. One can tell that the aristocracy of the land live around here. Huge houses that govern acres of land punctuated with gated horse pastures dot the drive. We rounded Richmond and made our way south to Petersburg. We had to miss the peninsula between the York and James Rivers. This was the sight of the famous 7 days campaign as well as several battlefields including Cold Harbor where Lee stopped Grant - at least for a little while. Our original itinerary would have us in Williamsburg, but time constraints were in play.

Petersburg during the Civil War was a major rail junction and city that proved to be the gateway to Richmond. In 1864 Grant crossed the James river and moved up. His forces were commanded by incompetent subordinates who lost the opportunity to break Lee's line. As a result a 9 month siege ensued where both sides funneled in reinforcements leading to a line that was 40 miles long. Eventually  numbers began to play their part and Grant pushed through.

 In an attempt to link up with the Confederate armies of the west, Lee pushed his forces towards Appomattox. He was cut off, his supplies were intercepted, and eventually surrounded. On April 8th, 1865 he attempted to break out. The attempt failed. The Army of Northern Virginia depleted of forces, exhausted, and starving had little other choice.

 Lee sent word to begin surrender talks. Both legendary generals met at the Mclean House. Per report, they appeared as kindred spirits as their conversation grew pleasant and lasted for over an hour. Lee brought the discussion back to the topic at hand.

The surrender was signed and Lee told his men to lay down their arms and not to engage in further activity. He encouraged that it was time to be civilians again. He thus set a precedent that all other Confederate generals followed.

I think there was a certain sadness to seeing the room in which the surrender was signed. But also a strength of character and realization that it was time that peace was needed in the land. As Lincoln would say in his 1st inaugural address:

" We are not enemies, but friends. We must not be enemies. Though passion may have strained it must not break our bonds of affection. The mystic chords of memory, stretching from every battlefield and patriot grave to every living heart and hearthstone all over this broad land, will yet swell the chorus of the Union, when again touched, as surely they will be, by the better angels of our nature."

Wilderness / Spotsylvania Re-enactments

 May 3rd we drove out to the Spotyslvania and Wilderness battlefields. It was the 150th anniversary of these two battles and as such there was a reenactment on. We were a little late on my part as I had to get in a haircut before the shops in Fredericksburg closed. I'm not sure why, but for a Saturday most of the barber shops were closed.

 As we drove up we could hear the thunder of the canons going off and the sharp reports of a thousand rifles singing a volley in unison. The spectacle was intense and while it was rehearsed it seemed like amazing fun.

 The people who do this truly live out their passion for the civil war. There are two vast tent cities to that house the Federals and Confederates. They must all spend a vast fortune to obtain the uniforms, equipment, and weapons. I one case a man we met bought a working canon - I was afraid to ask how much he paid for it, but apparently it is quite an involved process to get, own, operate, and then lovingly shoot this thing.

 We visited both the Confederates and the Union camps. People were not only friendly, despite our switching sides, but also extremely well educated on their time period and various accouterment. In one case a Confederate captain caught me examining his rifle and promptly placed it in my hands and his fellow man rushed of to find a bayonet to place on the end.

 It was a rush to see an entire infantry regiment parade past you with flute and drugs ringing out the march.

 We returned later that day for the luminary. They light small candles and place them into white paper bags. One for each man that died. The views of Antietam on youtube can give you an example of this. It was erie to see small lights filling one's field of view.

 We left the luminary to find Fredericksburg rather empty for a Saturday night. But never-the-less we managed to get in some good food and hit the sack. We had a long day ahead of us