The Road to Antietam

One thing about staying in Winchester, VA is that it is striking distance to a multitude of different civil war battlefields. From here it is about an hour across the Potomac to the field of Antietam. This was a battle in 1862 which is still regarded as America's Bloodiest Day. Thats a decisive statement when one thinks about the D-Day landings on Omaha Beach, the surprise attach on Pearl Harbor, or Rommel's bloody repulse of American forces at Kasserine Pass in Tunisia.

What I liked about this particular battle, was that it was actually a series of smaller battles. We started with the Northern sector. This is where the battle begun and was where the fabled "cornfield" of Antietam lies. From the visitor center one can walk down what was once known as the Hagerstown's Pike to the northern extent of the field. It was here that Alexander Gardner took his gruesome photographs of the dead piled up along the wooden fences.

We made our way up past the West Woods to the East Woods, where Union forces began their assault and in between this is the Cornfield where both the Union and the Confederates suffered horrendous losses. It has been calculated that John Bell ( a confederate general ) sent his Texans into this field in a counterattack and in less than 20 minutes suffered 83% casualties.

As we walked, I couldn't help but think how peaceful the area seemed. It was really an otherwise tranquil and beautiful piece of Maryland.

Walking in, through, and then out of the cornfield, we made our way back to the Visitor center. The Dunker Church was visible from a distance on a small patch of high ground. It made sense why this was the focal point of the Union Attack. It was the only major landmark. Ironic that a church would be the focal point for an attack - but this seemed to be the case for several other battles as well. I believe Shiloh and Gettysburg (if you consider the Seminary) would be similar examples.

Next was the sunken road. A depressed lane that was eroded prior to the battle by frequent traverse of carriages and wagons. It proved to be an ideal rifle trench and an extremely strong position. It was here that the center of Lee's line was able to hold off repeated attack - including Meagher's Irish Brigade. Lee had to send in almost the last of his reserves - stripping them from other fronts to secure this one. In the end, confederate soldiers misunderstood an order for retreat and abandoned this position. Lee then had to resort to the use of his artillery to hold off further union attack. By the end of the battle this trench was filled with bodies.

We attempted to get in a few shots of the Southern portion of the battlefield - over an area called "Burnsides' Bridge" where the Union Commander who gave his name to tho bridge attempted to get an entire Corp over a 12 foot wide bridge. The results were disaster, but sheer number gave way. The Confederates who had been thinned to support other fronts, could only hold for so long. They had to retreat and as the Union pursued it seemed that Lee would be crushed. Just in time, A.P. Hill's forces appeared on the horizon - they had just gotten back from securing Harper's Ferry and threw themselves into the Union Left flank to save the day.

When we arrived, the Bridge was under construction and heavily defended by a swarm of bees that began to attack us and so we beat a hasty retreat. 

Petersburg to Appomattox Court House

 It was sad to see Fredericksburg disappear behind the horizon. I would highly recommend this town to anyone. We managed to spend 3 days and it was packed with everything we needed. The stores had a wealth of interesting antiques, the food was sophisticated, and the in town college produced a local gentry of eclectic and dynamic people. It also had history in abundance, a running path along the Rappahannock, and while in town we saw at least 3 weddings going on. I guess we were not the only ones who were impressed.

 We made our way south west into the interior of Virginia known as the Piedmont. The coastal area soon gave way to beautiful rolling hills. One can tell that the aristocracy of the land live around here. Huge houses that govern acres of land punctuated with gated horse pastures dot the drive. We rounded Richmond and made our way south to Petersburg. We had to miss the peninsula between the York and James Rivers. This was the sight of the famous 7 days campaign as well as several battlefields including Cold Harbor where Lee stopped Grant - at least for a little while. Our original itinerary would have us in Williamsburg, but time constraints were in play.

Petersburg during the Civil War was a major rail junction and city that proved to be the gateway to Richmond. In 1864 Grant crossed the James river and moved up. His forces were commanded by incompetent subordinates who lost the opportunity to break Lee's line. As a result a 9 month siege ensued where both sides funneled in reinforcements leading to a line that was 40 miles long. Eventually  numbers began to play their part and Grant pushed through.

 In an attempt to link up with the Confederate armies of the west, Lee pushed his forces towards Appomattox. He was cut off, his supplies were intercepted, and eventually surrounded. On April 8th, 1865 he attempted to break out. The attempt failed. The Army of Northern Virginia depleted of forces, exhausted, and starving had little other choice.

 Lee sent word to begin surrender talks. Both legendary generals met at the Mclean House. Per report, they appeared as kindred spirits as their conversation grew pleasant and lasted for over an hour. Lee brought the discussion back to the topic at hand.

The surrender was signed and Lee told his men to lay down their arms and not to engage in further activity. He encouraged that it was time to be civilians again. He thus set a precedent that all other Confederate generals followed.

I think there was a certain sadness to seeing the room in which the surrender was signed. But also a strength of character and realization that it was time that peace was needed in the land. As Lincoln would say in his 1st inaugural address:

" We are not enemies, but friends. We must not be enemies. Though passion may have strained it must not break our bonds of affection. The mystic chords of memory, stretching from every battlefield and patriot grave to every living heart and hearthstone all over this broad land, will yet swell the chorus of the Union, when again touched, as surely they will be, by the better angels of our nature."

Manassas Battle Field

Left New York and Jersey City behind. Took the highways west through the lush valleys of Pennsylvania. Anything to avoid that awful NJ turnpike. Storms continued to deliver a torrent that left the roads difficult to see. Every once in a while they would abate and reveal low hanging clouds and creeping fog making its way between gaps in the rolling hills. 

 Picked up Chase at Dulles and made it to Manassas the next day after spending the night with my Aunt Gheeta who went all out to make the transition to Virginia amazing.

 This was the sight of two major battles. We took the hiking tour past the Henry House and up to Matthews Hill. Winding across Sudley road we went to the unfinished rail road cut. A place where Stonewall Jackson once again held the union at bay.

 The ground was soaked and small streams were raging including Bull Run itself. I could understand why Civil War armies didn't want to cross this.

 Eventually we made it down past Groveton Graveyard and down around Chinn Ridge to our starting point. We were exhausted. Even now on the first day of May, the sun was intense.  couldn't imagine this in July when armies clashed (or August if you are considering 2nd Bull Run)