Volubilis, Morocco - Day 6

Meknes - while a nice place to see the mausoleum did not really have much more to offer. Seems like the place is ready to monopolize on its one hit wonder and hoards of tourist gouging vendors line the streets. Thus we headed north to the hilly town of Moulay Idriss which was named after the grandson of the prophet who had to flee from Arabia and settled in Morocco to establish the Idrisid Dynasty. While a pilgrimage site for many Muslims, most of it is closed to non-muslims. However, near by are the Roman ruins of Volubilis. This is named after the local flowers, morning glory. It was once the capital of the Roman province of Mauretania Tingitana.

The site is incredible and only a portion of it has been excavated. While most of the buildings that one can see are actually reconstructed by contemporary archeologists, there is still plenty to suggest the Roman way of life. Strolling along the main roads that lead up to the triumphal arch, or seeing the remains of intricate mosaic floors, one gets a good sense of how Romans on the very fringe of their vast

empire lived. The ruins are situated on a slowly inclined field and one can see the remains of its sewage system under the main roads. Surrounding the ruins is lush fields of various crops. In summary - if you are into the whole history thing - and for that matter if you are not, don't miss this place.

The Road to Fez, Morocco - Day 4

We have been at our hotel in Fez now for a night and as I haven't gotten over the jet lag of an 8 hour time difference I find myself awake at 4:30 am. Its actually storming and in any other situation I would find it easy to fall asleep to the sounds of thunder and heavy rain. The delicately embroidered wooden window shutter is pulled slightly ajar and through the lacework iron that covers my bedroom window, I can see the rain falling down in the central courtyard occasionally highlighted by flashes of lightening.

Figured I'd have time to cover the trip to Fez. First and foremost, Casablanca is not my cup of tea - just get in and get out. We took the coast road up to Rabat - about 1.5 hour trip and the road has an uncanny resemblance to the 101 in California - except that is the Atlantic to the left and not the Pacific. Along the way there a small towns and villages and one can see donkey drawn carts along side the heavy 18 wheel big rigs.

As we were approaching Rabat from the south, our first stop was the Chellah. This used to be a Roman city built into a bluff overlooking the river valley below. Later it was used as a medival necropolis and it is now dominated by and the ruins of a mosque. In these first two pictures you can make out the finely etched carvings that stand as an example of the sophistication of Islamic stone work. Throughout the site there are tombstones and in the old Roman section one can make out latin inscriptions on various blocks that once used to be the forum.

This place has an incredible Zen to it. Peace seems to permeate its walls. We came on bright day with a cool breeze from the Atlantic that made the tall grass and wild flowers seem to dance. If for nothing else than to bring a picnic and watch the river below - I highly recommend it.
We then headed to the Hassan Tower as we proceeded north along the broad avenue that borders the river. This was supposed to be a minaret - first started in 1195 C.E. by Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour - however as he died 4 years later the construction was stopped. Today, in its shadow is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. there is a vast courtyard filled with half completed columns that separates this from the Hassan Mosque. The doors of which are brilliantly colored. Arrive later in the afternoon and you can catch the setting sun reflecting off of these elaborate doors. Personally, didn't think too much of this place. I'd recommend the little known and unfortunately tiny archeology museum in town instead.

Later in the day, after getting a meal with our guide in the Medina we got to the Dar el Kebira Riad. This place was incredible! Well located in the heart of the old medina. It was decorated like a museum. Dinner was offered by the Riad itself and was equally impressive. In all, it was a three course meal with a patty made of vegetables served with several side bowls of sauce made from carrots, minced beef, eggplant, and spices (waiter only knew French - will get the names later). This was followed by a Tajine (a Moroccan serving and cooking dish which looks like an upside down funnel on a plate) of chicken and lamb served with steamed carrots, cauliflower, and zucchini. BTW - on a side note, don't drink the tap water - always have it bottled. The hotel's roof terrace was a great place to drink some wine and relax with a good book.

http://www.darelkebira.com/en/

I went out on my own to the Kasbah des Oudaias - the citadel of the old city. The main gate has been turned into a free art gallery of local artists. The streets are narrow and the buildings are brightly lit and painted in white and blue. The main streets wander down to the Cafe Maure - not a bad place to drink tea (no alcohol). As it is built into a terrace of the old city wall that overlooks the river, it is an excellent place to people watch before heading down to the beach or heading back into the souks of the old medina. See the pic with the arched covering below.

I've only been in this country for a few days and already I'm impressed with the people that I've met. They have been kind and considerate to us. Our guide, Abdul, begins conversations with random people as we go and it is not considered strange and indeed is expected. Each of these conversations begins with a blessing "Peace be with you" which is returned with "and on to you peace." Abdul tells us that this greeting is used instead of "good morning, hello, etc. "

After spending a night in Rabat, we packed and headed East into the rolling hills that precede the Middle Atlas Mountains. The scenery is so lush and fertile with farms of everything from olives to wheat and interspersed with the random shepherd tending his flock of sheep or cows. We made it afterwards to the city of Meknes to visit the final resting place of Moulay Ismail - a 17th century tyrant whose vibrant building campaigns were blighted by his campaigns of sadism and torture. (read up on this guy - pretty crazy) We then made it to Volubilis - which I'm gonna have to have a separate entry for.

We are now taking a breather and resting in Fez for the next few days. Ok people - need to get some food as the placed we are staying at is opening up. If anyone has a good recommendation for beating jet lag - I'm all ears. Until next time!

Casablanca - Day 1

I don't think that any amount of planning can fully prepare you for what lies ahead in any travel completely. This whole thing started about 24 hours ago when Maria took both Chase and I to SFO international and I kissed her good bye (miss her already). We got on a direct flight to London Heathrow. When we got there we had a 7 hour lay over. As our internal clock was registering 3AM and it was 11AM for the rest of the brits we figured we might as well make use of the time.

We went to the local Hilton - which is attached to Heathrow and would make an excellent stop over with anyone who had time to kill. We used the spa and proceeded to get in a workout. Half way through a sweaty work out a fire alarm was called and we had to abandon the building and wait half an hour in the parking lot freezing in the shitty English climate. After that we grabbed our luggage in haste and rushed to the check in counter - only to find out that that wasn't our luggage after all. We ran back to the hotel and grabbed the right gear. The ladies in the check in counter thought we were idiots.

We are now in Casablanca. We have a swank little pad called the JM suites which is within walking distance to a few hot spots. We checked out a local bar (only thing open) and were immediately greeted by the locals - who I think felt sorry for a bunch of dimwitted American new-bees. Before long we were drinking beer with the best of them. I don't remember people being this nice since Madrid. If the rest of Morocco is this nice I think we are gonna fit right in. On a side note, I haven't had to resort to selling Chase to the highest bidder just yet.

Hiking In Marin County

Wanted to relate one of our favorite hikes. For us its about a 6 hour total trip, but one can break this down into smaller segments especially if you start in down town Mill Valley. In the end there is beer!

We started from home walking down along the water to Miller Avenue which took us past Joe's Taco Lounge & Salsaria - its a cute place for a breakfast burrito, but as long as you are not looking for more than "quaffable" its totally do-able. As usual Maria was disappointed with the Mexican cuisine. I personally found the decor amazing - never seen that many plastic saints lined up in a row.
We then made our way up past Miller St. We were in luck as the cherry trees along the way were in bloom. You need to make your way up past the Depot Bookstore and Cafe - which is a great place for coffee and checking out the latest newspapers before turning left on Throckmorton Ave. and making our way up past Old Mill Park to Cascade St. Here you take another left and cross a small bridge before making it up to the beginning of the Dipsea Stairs.

The stairs begin in what looks like someone's parking lot but going up the ramp you begin the actual steps. For those who are new, this will at first feel like your are invading someone's privacy. Don't worry - just tell them I sent you.
All together there are about 675 steps to get to the top. You meander your way past people's homes. Do your best to avert your eyes from stalking into someone's kitchen. By the time you get to the top you will be a bit winded. We actually saw some die hard enthusiasts go up and down multiple times. At the top you need to continue along the road and then go up Walsh drive to the very back of a posh sub-division. Again avoid the feeling of trespassing. And try to suppress the urge to steal someone's mailbox. Eventually you will make your way to the crest of the mountain range - Panoramic Highway.
From here you will need to cross the road and continue along to get to the beginning of Dipsea Trail. The view from here is outstanding. On a good day you can see to the ocean. The trail immediately divides into the Sun Trail. Take the Sun Trail to the right and continue along the winding small dirt road. It hugs the hills and traces its way back and forth over small wooden bridges. I'd recommend having a hat and shades, as the name implies - there is a lot of sun.

From here it is a simple 20-30 minute walk - depending on how stellar of a hiker you are to get to the Tourist Club.

From out of nowhere you come across this beautiful multi-story house that has various large porches and looks like a doll house from Bavaria. BRING CASH! - Or resign yourself to drooling as others around you down German beer from the spigot. Pack a lunch and blanket to sit on as most tables are taken. They have a policy that only groups of 7 or less are allowed unless you are a club member (open 1-5PM except the weekend of the 2nd Sunday of each month). Otherwise enjoy yourself and let me know what you think.

http://www.touristclubsf.org/

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