The Road to Fez, Morocco - Day 4

We have been at our hotel in Fez now for a night and as I haven't gotten over the jet lag of an 8 hour time difference I find myself awake at 4:30 am. Its actually storming and in any other situation I would find it easy to fall asleep to the sounds of thunder and heavy rain. The delicately embroidered wooden window shutter is pulled slightly ajar and through the lacework iron that covers my bedroom window, I can see the rain falling down in the central courtyard occasionally highlighted by flashes of lightening.

Figured I'd have time to cover the trip to Fez. First and foremost, Casablanca is not my cup of tea - just get in and get out. We took the coast road up to Rabat - about 1.5 hour trip and the road has an uncanny resemblance to the 101 in California - except that is the Atlantic to the left and not the Pacific. Along the way there a small towns and villages and one can see donkey drawn carts along side the heavy 18 wheel big rigs.

As we were approaching Rabat from the south, our first stop was the Chellah. This used to be a Roman city built into a bluff overlooking the river valley below. Later it was used as a medival necropolis and it is now dominated by and the ruins of a mosque. In these first two pictures you can make out the finely etched carvings that stand as an example of the sophistication of Islamic stone work. Throughout the site there are tombstones and in the old Roman section one can make out latin inscriptions on various blocks that once used to be the forum.

This place has an incredible Zen to it. Peace seems to permeate its walls. We came on bright day with a cool breeze from the Atlantic that made the tall grass and wild flowers seem to dance. If for nothing else than to bring a picnic and watch the river below - I highly recommend it.
We then headed to the Hassan Tower as we proceeded north along the broad avenue that borders the river. This was supposed to be a minaret - first started in 1195 C.E. by Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour - however as he died 4 years later the construction was stopped. Today, in its shadow is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. there is a vast courtyard filled with half completed columns that separates this from the Hassan Mosque. The doors of which are brilliantly colored. Arrive later in the afternoon and you can catch the setting sun reflecting off of these elaborate doors. Personally, didn't think too much of this place. I'd recommend the little known and unfortunately tiny archeology museum in town instead.

Later in the day, after getting a meal with our guide in the Medina we got to the Dar el Kebira Riad. This place was incredible! Well located in the heart of the old medina. It was decorated like a museum. Dinner was offered by the Riad itself and was equally impressive. In all, it was a three course meal with a patty made of vegetables served with several side bowls of sauce made from carrots, minced beef, eggplant, and spices (waiter only knew French - will get the names later). This was followed by a Tajine (a Moroccan serving and cooking dish which looks like an upside down funnel on a plate) of chicken and lamb served with steamed carrots, cauliflower, and zucchini. BTW - on a side note, don't drink the tap water - always have it bottled. The hotel's roof terrace was a great place to drink some wine and relax with a good book.

http://www.darelkebira.com/en/

I went out on my own to the Kasbah des Oudaias - the citadel of the old city. The main gate has been turned into a free art gallery of local artists. The streets are narrow and the buildings are brightly lit and painted in white and blue. The main streets wander down to the Cafe Maure - not a bad place to drink tea (no alcohol). As it is built into a terrace of the old city wall that overlooks the river, it is an excellent place to people watch before heading down to the beach or heading back into the souks of the old medina. See the pic with the arched covering below.

I've only been in this country for a few days and already I'm impressed with the people that I've met. They have been kind and considerate to us. Our guide, Abdul, begins conversations with random people as we go and it is not considered strange and indeed is expected. Each of these conversations begins with a blessing "Peace be with you" which is returned with "and on to you peace." Abdul tells us that this greeting is used instead of "good morning, hello, etc. "

After spending a night in Rabat, we packed and headed East into the rolling hills that precede the Middle Atlas Mountains. The scenery is so lush and fertile with farms of everything from olives to wheat and interspersed with the random shepherd tending his flock of sheep or cows. We made it afterwards to the city of Meknes to visit the final resting place of Moulay Ismail - a 17th century tyrant whose vibrant building campaigns were blighted by his campaigns of sadism and torture. (read up on this guy - pretty crazy) We then made it to Volubilis - which I'm gonna have to have a separate entry for.

We are now taking a breather and resting in Fez for the next few days. Ok people - need to get some food as the placed we are staying at is opening up. If anyone has a good recommendation for beating jet lag - I'm all ears. Until next time!