London, England - A Fantastic Weekend

It was a bitter sweet feeling to leave Morocco. It has its own unique culture and way of life. . . yadda yadda. However, there is something to be said about the allure of western civilization and all the distractions it entails. Towards the end of our trip we were actually craving McDonald's food. With that said we traveled from Casablanca to London for a weekend in the British capital. This is by no means a city to do in a weekend or a week or even in just a year, but that is the time alloted. With the exception of The British Museum, I did no other tourist stops. I didn't see the Tower of London, ditched Big Ben and Parliament, and didn't even come near Westminister Abbey. By the way, why is Ripley's and these awful wax museums such a hit in all tourist destinations?! They are ubiquitous and need to be avoided everywhere - how do these tourist gouging money pits survive?

So with that I'll give you the top ten things I did.

10. Sushi and Sake at Roka in Soho

9. Stay at the Langham Hotel (http://london.langhamhotels.co.uk/)

Stay here for the love of god!

8. Order cheeseburgers via room service at above

7. Hit the clubs and groove to London's underground

6. Use the Apple store repeatedly (shamefully) to check email

5. Have my first Italian meal in a month on Shaftsbury Ave.

4. See the real Rosetta Stone at the British Museum while listening

to Vivaldi on my Ipod

3. See an Indian Festival in Trafalgar Square - It was a sea of brown people

2. Check out the Galleries of Convent Garden while they played Bolero

1. Lapse into a moment of pure bliss while having an Australian white

and spacing out on the water front of St. James Park

Everyone needs to go to London. Bring A LOT of money and if you can, avoid the tourist stops. Stay someplace central and then just pick a direction and walk. Leave the camera at home and lose your map on the way out of the hotel. Let me know if this works for you.

Well I'm back in San Francisco now. Can not tell you how good it feels to be back home. I can now sleep in my own bed, play with the cats, and give Maria all those kisses I've been saving for her.

Marrakech, Morocco - Day 18

Moroccan mystique at its best. Marrakech has been a dream destination of mine for a very long time. The very name itself conjures up a sleek city built on the caravan routes of north Africa. A skyline dotted with square minarets, snake charmers bellowing on flutes, and air ladened with the heaviness of spice. I would spend mornings venturing into the medina and talking quick shots of various curiosities. In many cases, I needed to walk quickly, dodge the racing motorist, and avoid getting drawn into a haggling contest over items I really had no use for. By midday the temperatures and humidity would rise and its usually best to retreat to your riad and close the windows and nap.

The medina, the old portion of the city, near the main square of Djemaa El Fna is where one should look for a riad to crash. You can just as easily stay at the massive luxury hotels that dot the periphery of the old city, but again there is nothing like walking through a fortified doorway into an 11th century medina. We stayed at the Dar Silsilia which was an excellent spot and within 10 minute walk to most sites. There are a lot of Riads available, but be careful as some are not actually licensed by the government and don't carry insurance if something were to befall the traveler.

http://www.darsilsila.com/

After unpacking, we got a guide who took us the Marrakech museum, which is painfully small but does house some items of interest. We also had a chance to see various Medersas including the Ben Youssef. We headed to the south end of the city to see the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs. These are worth a visit if you have never seen tombs or a medersa before. Honestly, compared to the ones in Fez these lacked the complexity and awe.

Finally we made it to the Djemaa El Fna, the main square. Nearly 10 days ago there was a bombing here. The people of Morocco were in outrage, but the police were quickly able to find the man responsible. To come here at night, however, one would never know there was a disruption. The square was full with main local bands, snake charmers, and people selling any manner of goods. Keep an eye on your wallet as pickpockets are renowned for their prowess.

I would highly recommend finding a local cafe that has a roof top terrace. Find yourself a spot that also plays some good music. Nearly all the places surrounding the main square has these areas. Then just people watch from above. The view of the insanity below is worth the over priced food and drink.

Keep in mind that anyone you take a picture of in the square will likely have a friend awaiting right behind you to claim payment. Haggling works well and don't ever pay the first price they quote you for the picture you have just taken.
By this time we were getting a bit burned out on the whole souk deal. Sometimes you have to be a bit heartless when you walk through these areas. The locals can spot a tourist from a mile away and will sometimes be aggressive with trying to render a deal out of you.

The night also brings the possibility for western distractions. There is a portion of the new city that reminds me of Vegas. Its lined with massive luxury hotels that each boost its own night club and restaurants.

One of these called Pasha is well known. Its about a 70-100 Dirham cab ride from where we stayed. The restaurant - Crystal is one of the finest places I've ever eaten. A groovy ambience with live singers and fusion French and Moroccan foods. The local night club - Pacha is regarded as the best night club in town. PASS ON THIS PLACE. People are arrogant, drinks are criminally priced, and the place was dead. Go for the restaurants and then go someplace else.

http://www.pachamarrakech.com/

Another gastronomic master piece was Mai Thai. The website says Rabat and I'm sure they have a chain there too, but the one we went too had some outstanding Thai food with a fantastic lounge scene. The local DJ was playing a very hip north African blend of house and trance.

http://maithaimaroc.com/

This restaurant is located on a strip of clubs and restaurants that lead up to the casino (not really my thing). We managed to go club hopping - each with a unique rhythm. I'd also recommend checking out Le Comptoir Darna - another very cool scene that starts to explode after midnight with belly dancers and a good DJ

http://www.comptoirdarna.com/

‎

Ok, last suggestion as this is getting long, is the So night club and lounge in the Novotel Hotel complex. Again very hip - but couldn't find the link. Well, now its time to put down the computer and pack. We drive back to Casa and catch our flight in the morning.

Ait Ben Haddau / Mountain Biking, Morocco - Day 15

Ok, so just looking back a sec. I'm beginning to lose track of days and going through the pics I saw these two and had to add an entry for them. On our road from the desert to the high atlas we passed through the Dades and Todra Gorges and made our way to Ait Ben Haddau. This was a kasbah built on the caravan trade from the deep Sahara to the markets of Marrakech. The site is quite impressive and it really does look like something from the bronze age. Its a 10 minute detour from the main road and is worth the time. For the more adventurous, one must cross the small river at its base and going through the main gate a winding series of paths can bring one to the top. There are still a few people who inhabit this place and they are eager to mention the 12+ movies that were filmed here.
This pic was taken of the setting sun from the Sahara desert. Just love the effect the last few rays have on the dunes. I'd recommend a short hike after dinner to catch this view.
Finally, our last day in Quirgane, we were outfitted with mountain bikes and took a ride through alpine villages and back roads in the hills surrounding our hotel. There are numerous paths that can take you past mountain lakes and into the center of small villages. Be careful around corners as you never know what can come around at you. It would be best to set up the biking ahead of time with your travel agency.

By the way, we stayed at a garden resort called La Bergerie, trip advisor and numerous other sites taut this as the place to stay. Be careful however. You are sleeping and staying in a large garden that is crawling with bugs. We'd have to squish a few on the way to the bathroom every night. I even got stung by a wasp twice while sitting near the pool. A group of french tourists next to us actually had to jump in the pool to escape them. If you can handle the insects then go for it.

http://www.labergerie-maroc.com/

Ouirgane, Morocco - Day 12

Down but not out.

After leaving the Western Sahara behind us we traveled across the country. The trip was divided into two long car rides each over 8 hours in length. As we crossed the desert we made our way to the Todra Gorge. This mountain valley is an ecosystem both natural and man made. Within its confines one can see an entire civilization that was born in the protection of the high rocky walls and nurtured by the mountain stream that created it.

It was a nice break from the glaring heat of the desert. We ate at a local restaurant and had salad - BIG mistake. For the record people, no matter what they say about how they clean their food - DON'T EAT SALAD in any back water place away from the warm caress of civilization and modern water purification systems. Oddly enough we began the next day in high spirits. That mornings iPods were pugged to high volume and we both got in a good morning run. We had stayed in a garden oasis called "Les Jardins de Skora" - which resides in the valley of the kasbahs. An amazing village community with the High Atlas as its background. Check this place out if you are coming through here:

http://www.lesjardinsdeskoura.com/

The next 48 hours were a bit of a nightmare. We had terrible gasteroenteritis, the result of a bad stomach bug likely from the salad that we had eaten. We were enroute to Jebel Toubkal - the highest mountain in Morocco (14.5k ft) and our insides were not with us. We made it to Imlil, a small mountain city, by car after a 8 hour ride from Skoura. We shouldered our back packs and made our way slowly up to our staging area in a small village called Armoud.

The hike up to 7000 feet was miserable and despite the fact that most of our luggage was brought up by mule we were exhausted after the march. Our mountain guide told us that the mountain is usually clear this time of year. Looking up, however, once could see that there was snow and ice everywhere. Apparently a freak spring storm had coated the valley with precipitation.

Our hike was gonna be a no-go. Unless we were to use the crampons, ice axes, and extended thermal protection there was no way one could make it. In our debilitated state we opted to rest and recover in Armoud until the sickness got better.

By the second day I was up and moving. Chase was still bed-bound and had just enough energy to go to use the bathroom. I managed to get in a short mountain hike of the village and the surrounding area. Luckily by the third day we had recovered most of wits and were able to get off the mountain in one piece.
The lesson on eating learned, we were able to grab our gear and head down. The small path that lead down back to Imlil was much more pleasant.

On a side note I've learned to identify all sorts of feces from this trail - I can easily tell the difference between goat, cow, donkey, and camel poo. Bottom line - don't eat that either.

Well, we have contacted our travel group and headed a day early to Ouirgane. This is about an hour and a half from the mountain. Chase had snails for dinner and I went for white wine. Amazing what 48 hours can do. Tomorrow we hit the mountain biking trails and then off to Marrkech!

Merzouga, Morocco - Day 10

The path from Fez brought us over the Middle Atlas Mountains. The views got progressively more impressive and off in the distance one can see the snow capped peaks of the High Atlas. The air becomes more dry and then strangely enough, one enters Ifrane - a mountain community built by the French as a retreat from the heat below. One really feels as if you are in Switzerland rather than Morocco. After Ifrane the road begins to slowly descend to the Western Sahara and the rocky lands that lead up to the sand dunes.
Our first stop was the Ziz valley - a small oasis of date palms surrounded by high walls of red and orange rock. Our guide, Tata, took us for a hike along the rivers and the various irrigation canals. The Moroccans who live here grow a wide variety of foods to feed not only themselves but also the country. There are even places to camp in the valley itself. We ended our hike having lunch with our guide's family. The food was a mixture of rice, bread, salad, and beef. The cucumbers were cut and then a small helping of powdered sugar was added. I'm gonna have to try this back at home. Again, the tajines that were used work like pressure cookers and made the meat very tender.
From this point onward there is near desolation. If one looks up Merzouga on the map, it is literally the end of the road. From here one can see the sand dunes in the distance. The hotels along this path cater to the tourist trade and are very cookie cutter and lack the character of the riads we previously stayed at. We got in an hour of motorized quads in the sand dunes before hitching up to our camels and heading out into the desert.

I think everyone needs to spend a night under the stars here - there is so little light and one can see the milky way with ease. It is a chance to meditate. In the harshness of this environment, one's lesser needs seem almost pointless.

Of course Chase worried the whole night about being attacked by palm rats - but I told him it was likely not going to be a problem. Also, make sure you check your shoes in the morning for scorpions, as they love to make themselves at home in shoes.

One of our last stops was the village of Kamalia where the local group - a bunch of refugees form Senegal have created a village and a band that produces some incredible music. Chase managed to purchase some of their music. We enjoyed some tea with this tribe before heading over out to Skoura.

Alright - managed to compile my first video of the desert - a bit cheesy but comments welcome!

Fez, Morocco - Day 8

We are currently in on the edge of the Sahara and have left the city of Fez behind, but what an interesting place to explore. To think that Fez is a 3 hour flight from most cities in Europe, it is easily reached, and stepping along its inner city one is transported back to the 11th century.

Chase and I took turns dealing with colds we had picked up along the way ( I think he gave me his cold ). He had to crash at our Riad one day and I was bed bound the next. However as personal energy would dictate, we did venture forth into the medina. At once, one is bombarded by the smells of spice, sweat, smoke, and feces. Crowded alleyways that barely seem to support the throng of pedestrians are suddenly dispersed by the arrival of a heavily ladened donkey on its way to the market. One can easily get lost - and indeed that is usually the goal here. I would recommend checking out the Kairaouine Mosque which dominates the center of town and then peek into the many Medersa (Islamic schools) which are intricately decorated.

One of my favorite spots were the tanneries in the center of town. Be prepared the smell is awful - even from 300 feet away. Get a handful of mint leaves and place them under your nose as you get close. This is one of the few times in my life I came close to puking. Once you get your wits together, look down on the numerous vats below. Its not only a canvas of colors but also a look back in time. They say the workers get paid well for what they do - they better, the smell is intense.

I'd also recommend checking out the Merinid Tombs - a set of mounments to past rulers which sits atop a hill overlooking the Medina. The hike up here can be daunting and I confess as I had very little energy due to the cold, I just jumped a ride. After waking the medina for any length of time I'd recommend getting back your your hotel or riad and just relaxing. The culture shock, smells, and souks can easily render one senseless.

The place we stayed at was called the Riad Laaroussa. I would have to say this is one of the finest place I've stayed - not only in Fez but in the world. We met the owner and his wife, Fred and Cathy, who immediately made us feel welcome. They introduced us to their friends, the baby, and the cat. The best five star hotel pales in comparison to warmth and companionship one feels here. Aside from that, the roof top terrance commands a 360 degree view of Fez from inside the medina and the food they served was incredible. They even have their own blog dedicated to cuisine - but brush up on your french first.

This brings me to my next point on wine. Morocco, despite being a Muslim country, makes a wide variety of white, and red. We spent three nights sampling the reds and whites. Their cabernet was good and tannin count was low compared to its American counter part. My favorite was the white wines. Their varieties of Chardonnay have been excellent. Here is the link - you need to check this place out if you are staying in Fez or interested in the food.

http://www.riad-laaroussa.com/en/

Ok, we just awoke in the desert after sleeping in a tent on a sand dune (mon dieu!)- little tired and will write more later. Adieu!