Chase and I took turns dealing with colds we had picked up along the way ( I think he gave me his cold ). He had to crash at our Riad one day and I was bed bound the next. However as personal energy would dictate, we did venture forth into the medina. At once, one is bombarded by the smells of spice, sweat, smoke, and feces. Crowded alleyways that barely seem to support the throng of pedestrians are suddenly dispersed by the arrival of a heavily ladened donkey on its way to the market. One can easily get lost - and indeed that is usually the goal here. I would recommend checking out the Kairaouine Mosque which dominates the center of town and then peek into the many Medersa (Islamic schools) which are intricately decorated.
One of my favorite spots were the tanneries in the center of town. Be prepared the smell is awful - even from 300 feet away. Get a handful of mint leaves and place them under your nose as you get close. This is one of the few times in my life I came close to puking. Once you get your wits together, look down on the numerous vats below. Its not only a canvas of colors but also a look back in time. They say the workers get paid well for what they do - they better, the smell is intense.
The place we stayed at was called the Riad Laaroussa. I would have to say this is one of the finest place I've stayed - not only in Fez but in the world. We met the owner and his wife, Fred and Cathy, who immediately made us feel welcome. They introduced us to their friends, the baby, and the cat. The best five star hotel pales in comparison to warmth and companionship one feels here. Aside from that, the roof top terrance commands a 360 degree view of Fez from inside the medina and the food they served was incredible. They even have their own blog dedicated to cuisine - but brush up on your french first.
This brings me to my next point on wine. Morocco, despite being a Muslim country, makes a wide variety of white, and red. We spent three nights sampling the reds and whites. Their cabernet was good and tannin count was low compared to its American counter part. My favorite was the white wines. Their varieties of Chardonnay have been excellent. Here is the link - you need to check this place out if you are staying in Fez or interested in the food.
Ok, we just awoke in the desert after sleeping in a tent on a sand dune (mon dieu!)- little tired and will write more later. Adieu!
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